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Stephen Haas
> 24 hourIm in the middle of an engineering project (basically a custom RC plane), and needed some small, precise parts that still need to take decently significant loads. Of course print quality and resolution is a more a matter of what printer you have, but I can say this stuff printed fantastically on my Photon Mono S with the settings recommended by Siraya Tech (you can find a spreadsheet on their website). The parts that I got are incredibly strong. I know this is an ABS-like filament, but Ive legitimately gotten better performance out of these than actual ABS from an FDM printer. That is most likely because printing orientation does not matter nearly as much, so the parts turn out mostly isotropic (equal strength in all directions). Ill describe some of the cases I used this for below. MY USE CASES: One of the parts was a stepper motor gear (28BYJ-48) that needed to deal with up to 0.1N*m of torque. I can tell after a lot of use, the section that meshes with the stepper pin has worn down from perfectly tight, to having maybe 3-5 degrees of slack, but its still perfectly usable. Many of the parts require linkages between them, so I printed 5mm pins. In my case, I had to reduce the size of the pins to about 95% to avoid clearance issues, but once they were in place the pins had very little friction while still providing very tight joints. Additionally, those pins could handle a surprising amount of shear force. I tested with a 5kg weight, so statically thats about 2.5MPa, but I also drop tested with that rig, so it could have easily reached 25MPa at one point. CLEANING: Specifically regarding this resin, you have to empty and clean your vat within 2 days if you dont plan on printing again. This stuff will separate into layers in about that time and becomes harder to clean off the vat. Also, water curing has yielded good results for me. If youve never resin printed before this part is for you, otherwise move along: Cleaning the prints is quite a hassle. They come out coated in liquid uncured resin which is, in the case of this resin, definitely a nasty skin irritant and potentially toxic if ingested (most resins are). Youll need LOTS of isopropyl or denatured alcohol, at least like 2 or 3 tubs or large tupperware containers, lots of paper towels, definitely more gloves than your printer comes with, and some way to get rid of the fumes. The alcohol is smelly enough, but this resin is definitely nasty stuff to be around. You have to be very careful not to get it on your skin or other surfaces (as it is quite drippy off the printer). With this resin, I got the best results by cleaning with alcohol from a spray bottle, then rinsing in water for 30 seconds, and then submerging in a cleaner tub of water before leaving in the sun (for 45 minutes) or shining with a bright UV light (1 minute or more, flipping the part with tweezers). I tend to keep one tupperware container for the alcohol cleaning process, which is very thick with uncured resin, one container for dirty rinse water, and one for clean water (and a bonus extra container to place all my contaminated tools and paper towels). I can usually run with this setup for several prints without changing out the liquids, which is nice because you CANNOT wash this stuff down the drain (unless you want even more micro-plastics in the ocean), and it absolutely has to be cured before you dispose of it. I typically save my 2-liter bottles and old mouthwash bottles, dump everything into those, and leave them out in the sun for a day before putting in the trash. CONCLUSION: If you can deal with the hassle of cleaning and PROPERLY discarding of the waste, then this resin produces results that you simply cannot get with other printing methods. Sure, FDM printing is less toxic and usually easier to get larger prints with, but the precision and speed of resin printing is unmatched. Usually that comes at the cost of poor physical proteries, but with this resin, you can get really small, precise parts with fantastic physical properties.
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Roger stallings
> 24 hourI am a recent convert to Siraya Tech ABS-like. I had been using zMud, but it was out of stock. A colleague of mine suggested the Siraya Fast. I already used Tenacious to mix on certain miniature lines, so I wasnt too hard to convince. Did my first plate of miniatures last night in Siraya Fast and not a single failure. Prints look solid and feel tough. The supports were.much stronger feeling than Im used to, in a good way. The Siraya printed minis washed easy and the details were definitely there. It is about the same cost as what I was using and just has an excellent out of box look for miniatures. I know youll eventually get around to priming and painting them, but until then they will look like magnificent little statues. Oh and I didnt notice any strong odors like you get from other resins. I print professionally and I think this is my new resin of choice.
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tibjay
> 24 hourSiraya Navy Grey is the best resin available for 3d printing miniatures. It shows incredible levels of detail, cures to a perfect matte finish, and doesn’t get brittle unlike most ABS-like resins I’ve used. This resin produces gorgeous, professional looking prints every time, at any layer thickness. Once you get your settings dialed in, you’ll never use another resin again. It costs a little more, but when you print with it you’ll know why.
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Bruce Pringlemeir
> 24 hourSecond time purchasing this resin, very easy to use
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Shannon M
> 24 hourI have been using the smoky black resin mixed with some Anycubic clear for about a year , it’s the best thing I have found , it makes the prints not nearly as brittle and I don’t have to expose them to a bunch of light . My mix ration is about 60% clear Anycubic to 40% of the siraya tech . It’s saves some money and just plain works for me . I mainly use mono x 4K and 6k printers but I don’t think it makes a difference that I have seen between printer makes/models . So happy I found this stuff , before using this my prints would break if I just looked at them wrong, much less knocking one over on a counter or shelf. Happy Printing !
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Justin Mccord
> 24 hourI love this resin. I first used it around 2 years ago and since have stopped bothering with any others for anything beyond just test prints. Its not the cheapest available, but has been reliable and really tough once cured, for a UV resin. I do mix 1 part Sirayatech Tenacious into 5 parts of Fast when printing miniatures with particularly small or thin details. But I no longer think of my printed minis as being any more fragile than purchased plastic ones and treat them the same way.
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Ryan Jackson
> 24 hourIve been resin printing for many years, although with Formlabs gear, so my resin experiences have been good, if limited and expensive. I like the SirayaTech Fast ABS-like because it has a neutral grey color tone, although even thick parts will be fairly translucent. It does cure quickly allowing for faster print times than some other resins Ive used, but not by a huge margin.
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DisabilityServiceCounselor
> 24 hourI do a lot of miniature painting and printing. This is my go-to resin. I do add about 10% of tough and that makes a really sturdy miniature. Its like the fourth time Ive bought this so its good
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Steve Cornette
> 24 hourSiraya Tech Resin. Quite possibly the most popular hobbyist resin on the market. New to the tech & started using it right away and havent had any issues related to quality. We use it for doing prototypes that require flexibility with toughness. Im also finding its very easy to combine with other resins within the product line. Im even mixing it with titanium dioxide & its performing well! Ive yet to test the detail quality but I plan on it soon. Great quality resin for a little bit more money. Its well worth it imo.
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Logan
> 24 hourI got the metal gray as it showed that it was darker than the navy gray, but mine is much lighter like the regular gray. Other than that, I’ve purchased quite a few colors of this specific resin and they’re all amazing quality, super high detail, and prints quick