EATON CHSPT2ULTRA Ultimate Surge Protection 3rd Edition, 2.38 Length, 5.25 Width 7.5 Height

The process was excelent and the product is the best qualify.

This is a great product that saves your home.

I installed this in a brand new construction single family home - we had an Eaton panel but that wasnt the only reason I went with the product, it has some good flexibility for the installation and is rated extremely well. Note that this product is NOT Cutler-Hammer - it is EATON - if you are trying to find more info elsewhere, go to the Eaton website and review the information they have there on their surge protection products. Eaton bought cutler-hammer ages ago and all cutler-hammer products are made by them anyway, but if you are looking for info you wont find it under the cutler-hammer name. I knocked out a bottom hole because the panel was mounted with two studs flush on each side of the box. Requires a new two-pole breaker - note that while the smaller ones use a smaller breaker, this box requires a 50 AMP two pole breaker. They are available at your local Lowes if you have an Eaton box - you dont need an Eaton panel for this product but you need the right breakers for your panel whatever brand and type that is, and it needs to be 50 AMP two-pole (essentially two breakers hooked together). I was installing in my main panel and so on the sides both buses were wired to each other - this is normal for modern service panels and in such case you can wire the ground and neutral into the same side of the panel/same bus. I chose to put it on the side of the box where the utility ground was hooked up. Since I had to come in from the bottom I was able to just put the breaker at the bottom of the box and wire the hots in before seating the breaker in the box. There are some recommendations out there to install these breakers at the top of the panel - theres some validity to this, but if you are installing in an existing panel the benefit you get from moving everything around to do that isnt worth it - and you definitely dont want to do it at the expense of longer wires - the shorter the wires are the better, they are your weak point in the connection. Youll want to cut these down some if you can (though dont go too short - I almost did, whoops!) It is also recommended to have the hots twisted - this is described in the instructions. All in all it was a snap to install - make sure you have the main breaker off while doing this unless you really know what you are doing, and use a voltage tester to make sure things are safe before you get started. Dont forget to consider surge protection for coax or phone lines coming into the house. Eaton sells products for the phone lines I think if you have the traditional ones. For coax like cable TV/internet I recommend the tii 212 device - was a snap to install. You still also need good surge protectors for high end electronics like your entertainment system at the plug - this device wont be able to protect your devices from surges that occur along the same circuit as other devices and there are various other factors within the home. For my computers I use a variety of surge strips/protectors and I have a belkin device for my entertainment system setup. For my wall mounted TV I have a recessed outlet with a leviton surge protector/outlet combo so I dont have to have a strip up there somewhere. Keep in mind that the warranty for this device will only apply if you surge protect other wires coming into you house - such as the coaxial cable line.

Easy to install

The installation of the suppressor, the circuit breaker and wiring everything up was about 20 minutes total. Time will tell how well it works, but for now, looks good.

Worth it if you get lots of lighting and thunderstorms

This review will cover installation as I am not aware of there being any discharge recently. I wanted to use this in the main panel, which is outdoor. The instructions are not detailed enough. When you install these type of devices, you need to follow the instructions very closely to still be under the UL umbrella. For outdoor installation, the drawing claims the unit needs to be attached to the side of the panel with a liquid tight washer or facing down attached to the bottom of the panel with a liquid tight conduit. It seems not to allow installing the unit facing up directly into the bottom of the panel. My panel does not have a knock out on the side, and I think I cannot make a knock out without violating the UL listing of the panel as I have not found any panel manual that allows for such a use. Remember, UL listings are all about using a product on the way it is described on the manual which is the way it was tested for the UL listing. If I want to mount it vertically to use one of the knock outs on the bottom, the instructions dont mention which type of tube and fittings to use. The tube is no problem, but the fitting to connect the tube to the unit has to be UL listed for using this way. I have not been able to fine a coupling that is listed for this. I found a metal one that does not fit properly against an o-ring. It pushes the o-ring out. I also found a plastic one that has to be glued to a pipe that actually seems that would work. But I do not know if it is listed for this application. So I was planning to use that setting when I got in the second problem. The instructions ask for avoiding sharp turns and keeping wires as short as possible. Sharp turns might increase impedance. Just think that the energy being dissipated from lightning has a very high dV/dt. So any sharp bend or big loops (the other reason it asks for twisting the wires if possible) will lower the effectiveness of the surge protector. The problem is that they took short wires way to seriously. So one cannot avoid a sharp bend on the conduit and still have wire to go to the breaker.... At the end, I gave up and installed the device on an inner panel. I still need a solution for the outer panel but I guess I will try to solve it in another way.

How do I really know how well this thing works. Until theres a surge, I dont. Been installed now for 2 years and so far it still claims its working fine (green lights). Im ranking it based on what my electrician said about it and mostly the price. Couldnt do better anywhere I looked. Lets hope it never gets tested.

Easy to connect to fuse box. (Have electrical training) Both lights are on. No surges yet.

I think the unit itself is a great unit but beware, apparently to save a few pennies, Eaton reduced the length of the 4 wires coming out of the unit from about 20-22 to 14-15. That may not seem like a lot, but what it means is that the wires are no longer long enough to reach the 50 amp breaker you need to install in the 1/3 positions on the panel. I have two Eaton 200 amp panels mounted side by side between three studs which means I cannot do a side mount and can only mount the units at the top or the bottom of the panels If mounted at the top, I could only connect the white wire to the top left neutral bar directly since the ground bar is at the bottom left and the ground wire would not reach. Conversely, if mounted at the bottom, only the ground wire could be connected directly to the ground bar. In either case, the red and black hot wires would not reach the 50 amp breaker. This means you have no choice but to pigtail additional wire onto three of the four wires to reach their respective connecting points, which significantly reduces the effectiveness of the surge protection and perhaps, compromises the warranty. You definitely want to keep the wires as short as possible, but they need to give you enough wire to install the units. I bought these because I figured they were easily compatible with my Eaton panels but I was surprised. When I called the supplier she pulled one of her units out of the box and it measured 20 inches but mine were only 14 or so. She called Eaton and apparently she was told they made a change. I also called Eaton to try to get two of the old ones with the 20 - 22 inch wires and they were no help. I was really disappointed with their customer service or lack thereof. So know how your going to connect these units before you buy them. For a modern 200 amp panel, you can probably only connect them from the left side so you need to have clearance on the left side to locate the unit to be able to connect all four wires. without using pigtails. Very disappointed! The pictures show the problems quite clearly. One other thing to look out for when mounting this unit. If you mount the unit to a knockout hole that is toward the front of the panel, i.e., towards the panel cover, the panel cover will not go on because the unit blocks the panel cover from fitting snugly against the panel. To combat this I used a 1/2 threaded 2 rigid conduit union with a 1/2 nipple to take the unit out of blocking the panel cover. It worked great. Of course, this means you need even more wire (approximately 2) to make the connections inside the panel.